Securing Cotton’s Future: Thinking Beyond the Boll

There is no denying that the cotton industry faced challenges in 2011. The fluctuating price of raw cotton fiber placed cotton and its position as a textile staple under scrutiny. Concerns over supply, pricing stability, and the effect of these to retail margins and consumer wallets spurred some in the textile industry to explore fiber substitution strategies. However, the challenges of 2011 were not the greatest that cotton has faced and endured. What keeps our industry on track is vision: thinking out of the box or, in the case of cotton, beyond the boll.

By accessing where the industry has been and where it is currently, a thoughtful vision of where it needs to go can be determined. This way of thinking was evident in the establishment of Cotton Incorporated. The idea of creating a company dedicated to both innovating and promoting a commodity was advanced for its time. The company’s Seal of Cotton and The Fabric Of Our Lives campaign marked the first time that a commodity had branded itself for promotion.

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When synthetic fibers eroded cotton’s market share of apparel from 63% in 1960, to 33% by 1973, the combination of a trademark and a compelling advertising campaign reminded consumers of cotton’s benefits and provided a marketing icon to aid retailers selling cotton products. When synthetics countered with its easy-care benefits, cotton responded with the innovation of durable press cotton apparel. More recently, cotton has made inroads into two categories long-dominated by synthetics: athletic and outdoor apparel with new moisture management and wind-resistant technologies.

While economic concerns have dominated the textile industry over the past year, the concept of sustainability in fiber selection and textile manufacturing is here to stay. Cotton is in an enviable position to tout its sustainable gains thanks to the comprehensive Cotton Life Cycle Inventory and Life Cycle Assessment that was completed in 2011. The data and the companion i-Report Tool will provide the textile industry with the most up-to-date information pertaining to cotton’s impact on the environment. In addition, these data sets establish a benchmark to accurately measure additional environmental gains over time.

The development of ultra-low gossypol cotton has significantly reduced gossypol levels in cottonseed while retaining it in the plant, where it serves as a natural pesticide. The potential benefit is significant: It maximizes the use of the cotton plant; has the potential of creating new revenue streams for cotton producers; and can provide a plentiful and nutritious food source.

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None of these advances are the work of one cotton organization or any one company. They are collaborative efforts that draw on strategic relationships with research universities, consortiums such as Field To Market, non-government organizations, private sector companies, and a host of other collaborative partners.

As we start a new calendar year, the temptation is great to focus on the challenges of the recent past. Fluctuating commodity prices and a crop year with lower-than-expected yields are very real – but also very temporary – concerns. Fixating on them runs the risk of distracting the industry from more long-term visions.

As the world population increases, so will demand for cotton fiber – and so will the need for food. How will the cotton industry reconcile this demand challenge with a concurrent decrease in natural resources like land and water, and an increased emphasis on environmental stewardship? The same way it has historically done: through foresight, assessment, goal-setting, strategy creation and implementation, and engaging the right partners to help develop solutions. And in fact, this work is already under way.

Challenging times can call for bold actions, but often the boldest action is to remain dedicated to a thoughtful, long-term vision, while remaining open to thinking beyond the boll.

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