Sustainability – Another Issue on the Rise
March 9, 2009 Sustainability. That is a word that is rattling the cotton world these days. While it has many different definitions, the cotton industry took notice when the world’s largest retailer Wal-Mart said it intended to set sustainable standards for its suppliers of goods including textiles. This is where the definition of sustainability comes into play.
Many environmental groups would have people believe that sustainable cotton production is organic cotton production. As this notion took hold, the National Cotton Council and Cotton Incorporated got involved to educate people that U.S. cotton production is in fact sustainable and to help people understand exactly what organic cotton production means. According to Berrye Worsham, president and CEO of Cotton Incorporated, some textile/apparel retailers and brands are leaning toward organic, based upon the environmental politics surrounding the issue.
“In general there is interest out there in doing more positive things for the environment, so there are retailers and brands that are establishing sustainability programs for their suppliers,” says Worsham. “It is unfortunate that there is a mistaken belief that it must be organic if it is going to be positive for cotton. Organic can certainly be part of a cotton sustainability program but it doesn’t have to be exclusively organic.”
Worsham adds that the idea that organic cotton can supply any significant part of world demand for cotton is unrealistic. He says the entire world supply for organic cotton is estimated to be slightly more than 100,000 bales, while world demand is between 115-120 million bales. From an environmental standpoint, significant increases in organic production would require more land be cleared for production because of its relatively lower yields when compared to conventional production.
Good Track Record
Worsham argues that the U.S. cotton grower has a good track record when it comes to sustainability and the task is to get the word out on conservation and environmental improvements.
“Look at the dramatic reduction in pesticide applications that have taken place over the years fueled largely due to biotechnology,” he says. “Look at the higher yields we are producing through modern agriculture while reducing the amount of water-use per unit of fiber very dramatically. Consider the conservation tillage practices and integrated pest management that have taken place in U.S. agriculture. Variable rate applications are allowing growers to apply chemical only where needed.
“All of these things are coming together to paint a positive picture of U.S. agriculture. What we are trying to do is convey this message to retailers and brands not only here but around the world.”
In this time of high energy and input costs, growers are not applying conventional crop inputs just for the sake of it says Worsham.
“Nothing you put on cotton is free, so a grower is not going apply any input that will not yield a very positive return,” he says. “Considering the environment, the grower doesn’t want to spoil his own nest so to speak.”
Environmental Groups
Worsham says the role of activist groups are fueling the sustainability movement. The Organic Exchange is one such group that is suggesting conventionally produced cotton is environmentally unacceptable. The problem is that much of the information the group sends out is misleading or wrong, according to Worsham.
“You hear these arguments that cotton production is responsible for 25% of the world’s pesticide usage,” says Worsham. “Maybe that was true 30 years ago, but not today, and no credit is given to modern agriculture in terms of the reduction of its environmental footprint. There is a study showing that conventional cotton has reduced its environmental footprint by 17% over an 8-year period, while over that same period, production of cotton was up by 25%. It is clear that something positive is happening. It just needs to be recognized.”
U.S. cotton industry leaders fear that activist groups are “bundling” issues to increase pressure on the entirety of U.S. cotton. Whether it is blaming U.S. cotton subsidies for stalling WTO talks, or hurting African farmers, or lining up urban taxpayers against farm support, or the push for organic cotton, all of these issues have cross hairs squarely aimed at U.S. cotton. This is the challenge for industry leaders like Worsham, but he and others are taking the issues head on to ensure that inaccurate information about U.S. cotton is countered with facts and to continue the fight for free but fair trade.
“We are certainly not out here trying to bash organic cotton,” says Worsham. “If somebody wants to grow organic cotton and can make it work, we think that is great. In a sense we represent cotton whether it is conventional or organic, but where we are drawing the line is the promotion of organic cotton at the expense of conventional cotton, especially when many of the arguments against conventional cotton are way out of date or just dead wrong.”
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