American Pima Cotton Fuels Demand for Luxury Textiles
March 18, 2009 In March, sales of American Pima cotton were up 8.5% for the 2006/07 marketing season, compared to the previous year’s sales. Almost double digit growth is good in any industry, but when compared to a slow marketing year for U.S. cotton as a whole, Pima’s global sales are exceptional. More than 326,000 acres were planted to Pima in the U.S. in 2006, producing a record-setting 756,000 bales of some of the best cotton in the world. The additional supply of this silky, strong fiber accounts for some increase in sales, but demand from the international mill community, fueled by consumer desire for high-quality, luxury goods, is the driving force for sales across the global landscape. That’s according to Jesse Curlee, president of Supima – the promotional organization for American Pima cotton.
“One reason for the increase is that we had a bigger crop in 2006, so we have more to sell. But I just think that worldwide, quality is a big thing. We are in a niche market, and I think fortunately for us and the world that the niche market has not been affected. Particularly with China coming on so strong and their middle and upper classes expanding, causing greater demand for this type of cotton,” Curlee said. “Even though, while China is our biggest customer, most of the goods they are making are shipped to other parts of the world, whether it is the U.S. or Western Europe or some other place. But still there is a growing market for fine quality textiles, and we see demand for these better quality textiles continually increasing.”
The U.S. is the largest producer of ELS cotton world, providing mills, retailers and consumers with the fibers they need to produce higher quality textiles. Home furnishings and fashion takes the lion’s share of American Pima, using more than 40% for items such as bed sheets and towels. But an increasing amount of ELS cotton is being used in fashion apparel, and American Pima is taking advantage of this trend.
“We are seeing more American Pima used in the apparel market, both knits and wovens,” Curlee said. “Maybe even knits more than wovens because fine ladies’ knits are a big market with brands like Liz Claiborne that are doing quality knit programs. A lot of these are coming out of China and Hong Kong.”
Fine ladies knits and ultra-premium men’s dress shirts are natural end products for a fiber renown for its soft, silky hand and drape, but American Pima is finding its way into other type of garments as well. The denim market has traditionally been a user of coarser fibers, but with growing economies and affluent middle classes around the world, denim is no longer a fabric for the working classes.
“So far denim in general is not a major consumption area for ELS or American Pima, but it is becoming more so in the high priced luxury lines of denim where you see people spending $150-$300 for a pair of jeans. There is more and more of that going to Supima. You get a softer hand, you get a better color retention and those kind of things,” Curlee said. “So even in that market, where we didn’t think much of trying to get into it about 5 years ago, it has turned into a market where there is some volume in denim.”
A Message of Superior Quality
American Pima, as well as international ELS cotton, is experiencing greater demand for a simple reason – fiber quality and characteristics that are far superior to standard upland cotton. Yarn spun from ELS is stronger and softer; it is then knit or woven into fabrics that have an exceptional hand and drape. Because of its fiber length and strength, it is durable enough for modern finishes.
“Pima can be 40% stronger than your basic upland cotton, so you can make a much stronger yarn, which means in denim or particularly in fine shirting, you have a more durable product,” Curlee said. “That garment is going to last longer and look better after a lot of washings, particularly when you put a lot of finishes on these things today, whether it is a wrinkle-resistant finish, a no-iron finish, or in denim when they put these harsh finishes on there to give it that rugged look. When you deal with ELS, you have a lot stronger fabric to work with so it doesn’t damage it as much.”
When marketing the benefits of American Pima, Supima doesn’t just stop at the mill – its marketing efforts extend down the supply chain to retailers and consumers. Last January, the Supima Premium Fabric Show held in New York City gave designers a chance to meet with mills from around the world to see and feel the benefits of fabrics made with America Pima cotton. Called “absolutely fabulous” by The Daily News Record, the show was a success, and Supima is organizing another show July 17-19.
“We are getting bigger and bigger internationally and with trade shows. We had our first trade show in January of this year in New York – we called it Prefab. It was much better attended than we could have imagined for our first show, and it got really good press,” Curlee said. “We had people from Hong Kong, people from Peru, India, China, Portugal, Switzerland – the people from all over the world that make the finest fabrics.”
Licensing Benefits
Another marketing tool is Supima’s licensing trademark program. The program allows garment and textile makers who use American Pima to promote their finished products with the Supima trademark, giving retailers assurance that the goods were made with high-quality American Pima. Retailers then pass that message along to their consumers, marketing the items as value-added products.
“We have more than 250 licensees today that includes everyone from the spinner, weaver and knitter to the garment maker and retailer, and every day we are getting new requests for licensees so it just continues to expand. For retailers, we have people like Brooks Brothers, Bloomingdales, Macy’s and Lacoste,” Curlee said. “And we are somewhat restrictive. We don’t let everybody use the Supima name; we don’t let it go into discount stores and places like that. We want to maintain the reputation so that it will have value to a Lacoste or a Brooks Brothers, who want to use it in a very high end garment.”
To capitalize on its growth, Supima is continuing its marketing and branding efforts in 2007 and beyond. They will continue with two trade shows a year, and anticipate more international shows. Supima plans to increase its brand recognition through consumer and trade advertising, bringing awareness to the consumer as well as retailers.
“We will form stronger alliances with some of our major brands and our major customers. We are working closer with retailers and brands like Liz Claiborne and Brooks Brothers,” Curlee said. “As the Supima name gets stronger, it will give us more opportunity to work with these people.”
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