Cotton and Synthetics Need Not Be Enemies
February 9, 2011 The first three quarters of 2010 provided the international textile industry with a large amount of drama. The discussion concerning the short supply of textile raw materials and rising prices has now reached all levels of the textile supply chain and even reached the consumer. Everyone wants to know whether textiles will soon contain significantly more synthetic fibers. This is an emotional discussion that needs to be looked at in terms of the facts.
No less emotional, and equally debated across all levels of society, is the question of sustainability. It has now become an overinflated expression that, nonetheless, is based on a quite relevant and serious message. In this area especially, the cotton industry has made a lot of progress, but for the most part is completely ignored. Here, too, only a neutral view can provide orientation in a very complex field.
Synthetic and natural fibers have been combined for a long time. The proportion of non-cellulosic fibers among the synthetic fibers is now far more than 90 percent.
| Share of Market | 1960 | Today |
| Cotton | 68% | 36% |
| Wool | 10% | 2% |
| Synthetics | 22% | 63% |
| Total Market | 15 million tonnes | 70 million tonnes |
Cotton’s share of worldwide fiber usage may be in decline, but both cotton production and consumption continue to rise, as an ever-increasing volume of raw material is needed.
Although cotton and synthetic fibers have long been seen as competitive, the different characteristics that each raw material brings with it–as well as the globally increasing demand for raw materials–means that they can not only be seen as conflicting with, but also as complementing, each other. Cotton and synthetic fibers are no contradiction. If we look within the textile industry at the fashion sector, there is now very successful interaction.
We should view the development of natural and synthetic fibers as a positive challenge, especially against the background of a future increase in demand. The world’s population is expected to reach 10 billion by the end of this century. How will these people be clothed? Where will the raw materials come from?
The Bremen Cotton Exchange (BBB) sees these challenges as a chance to establish its reorientation. Since 1872, the association has served as a great treasure trove of experience for its members in all questions concerning cotton, with its own technical experts and an internationally famous laboratory and research institute, the Fiber Institute Bremen (FIBER). However, we do not intend to just rest on our laurels–developments in the textile industry now require an extension of the fields of competence.
Sustainability and corporate social responsibility are effective media buzz words that for the industry are in part linked with a number of requirements and the need to answer questions. For issues that have been discussed for a long time, such as organic cotton growing and labeling within the textile chain, Bremen will be a point of contact. However, in view of the public debate, the “hot” topics such as genetically modified cotton and social issues around cotton farming cannot be ignored. There is a great need for information on many levels, both within the industry and from the end consumer. The BBB will continue to expand its focus to become even more of a service provider and point of contact for neutral information.
Of great significance for the BBB is the support of research projects in the cotton testing sector. FIBER lists the development of testing methods as one of its core areas of competence and is a central figure in the Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC) Task Force. The aim is the implementation of instrument testing of cotton as a basis for trading. One focal point of FIBER’s work in this area is the establishment of Regional Technical Centres in Africa in a project jointly funded by the Common Fund for Commodities and the European Union.
The Bremen Round Test, solely organized and financed by the BBB, is an international benchmark test that serves to improve the harmonization of results from different laboratories. Approximately 200 laboratories from all over the world take part in the test three times a year, free of charge. All cotton testing methods are included and the complete evaluation from all of the laboratories is delivered to participants. As a result, adjustments to machine settings or testing methods can be carried out when necessary. Further research work is focused on the more intensive use of high volume instrument (HVI) values.
Jointly, the BBB and the International Cotton Association (ICA) are creating a new global cotton quality center which will sign responsible for HVI quality arbitrations, round tests, standards, and a worldwide HVI laboratory certification program. This new working platform will be of great benefit for the international cotton industry and at the same time marks the next step in the general convergency of the ICA and the BBB.
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