Lessons from the International Year of Natural Fibers

This past year was proclaimed the International Year of Natural Fibers by the United Nations General Assembly. The intention of the Assembly was to raise the profile of natural fibers among the consumers of the world, as well as to the textile trade. Such awareness-building, at least for cotton fiber, is the very reason Cotton Incorporated was founded nearly 40 years ago. During this year-long celebration of natural fiber, our company was particularly pleased to share research and expertise to benefit both the agricultural and manufacturing components of the global cotton supply chain.

In the United States, the environmental gains by cotton producers — including reduced pesticide applications, reduced reliance on irrigation and a high fiber-to-land ratio — were further validated by a Natural Resource Survey conducted by the Cotton Board and Cotton Incorporated. In addition to confirming that U.S. growers are using fewer inputs to produce more cotton, the survey revealed an increase in wildlife and wildlife diversity in and around cotton acres; that dispelled assumptions that genetically modified (GMO) cotton, particularly Bt cotton, adversely affects surrounding habitats.

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The results of this survey, as well as a wealth of other peer-reviewed facts about modern cotton production, were culled and posted to cottontoday.cottoninc.com. This micro-site, launched in April 2009, is a compendium of data relating to the ever-improving environmental footprint of cotton grown using modern agricultural methods.

During the International Year of Natural Fibers, Cotton Incorporated also amplified its role as a facilitator and educator to the global textile manufacturing segment. Two related initiatives were designed to help cotton textile manufacturers reduce the cost of doing business and the environmental impact of that business. The first was a conference titled “Cotton Textile Processing: Sustainable Solutions for a Better Future.” More than 18 months of intensive research sponsored by the Importer Support Program of the Cotton Board led to the identification of 26 technologies that can reduce water, energy and chemicals used in cotton textile manufacturing. We articulated these cost-saving and environmentally positive technologies at an international meeting in Hong Kong.

The conference brought together more than 200 cotton textile decision makers with the innovation providers in an effort to bridge the gap and increase awareness and utilization of these technologies.

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Following up on the success of the Hong Kong conference, Cotton Incorporated produced the book, A World of Ideas: Technologies for Sustainable Textile Manufacturing, in order to more widely disseminate information about these 26 technologies. In addition, Cotton Incorporated collaborated with Cotton Council International to bring the environmentally friendly technologies to manufacturers in Turkey in September, and in November to manufacturers, retailers and brands with a conference in Hungary. A one-day seminar was held in New York City in late October to further reinforce the message about these sustainable technologies to audiences around the globe.

The International Year of Natural Fibers was also a time to celebrate cotton as a potential food source, as well as a fiber. The researchers at Agrilife Center of Texas A&M University in Texas completed the first field trial of ultra-low gossypol cotton. In laboratory experiments in 2006, these same researchers were able to retain the naturally occurring chemical gossypol in the cotton plant — where it acts a natural pest repellent — but drastically reduce its presence in the seed, which has historically made cottonseed unfit for human consumption or by any livestock except dairy cattle.

When you consider that for every kilogram of cotton fiber there are 1.6 kilograms of cottonseed, you begin to appreciate how the idea of cotton may change over the next 40 years. It is intriguing to contemplate that in the near term, this byproduct of a crop grown around the world, could provide nourishment to communities already in need.

As the International Year of Natural Fibers closes, the cotton industry joins its fellow fibers in fond reflection of our accomplishments, and turns to face the future of our industries with renewed enthusiasm.

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